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If your casement won't stay open, drops on its hinges, or can't be cleaned from inside, the hardware is usually the reason. Here's how friction and butt hinges actually differ — with load ratings, standards, and which to specify for a timber casement.
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What friction and butt hinges actually do, how they differ, and which belongs on a timber casement window.
Quick note if you have sash windows: traditional sliding sash windows don't use hinges at all — they run on cords, weights and pulleys. If your window slides up and down rather than swinging open, see what is a sash window instead. This guide covers casement windows, which open on hinges.
A casement window's hinges do more work than most people realise. They carry the full weight of a glazed timber sash every time it opens, hold it steady against wind, and determine whether you can reach the outside face of the glass to clean it. Get the hinge wrong and the window drops, binds against the frame, or won't stay where you put it — problems that look like joinery faults but are almost always hardware.
Two types account for nearly every timber casement in the UK: friction hinges and butt hinges. They work differently enough that swapping one for the other changes how the window behaves.
A friction hinge is a single engineered unit: a sliding track fixed to the frame with pivoting arms linking to the sash. Adjustable friction inside the mechanism holds the window at any angle without extra hardware. A butt hinge is the traditional pair of leaves joined by a knuckle and pin — it lets the sash pivot, and nothing more. To hold a butt-hinged casement open you need a separate casement stay.
| Friction Hinge | Butt Hinge | |
|---|---|---|
| Holds open position | Yes โ friction holds any angle | No โ needs a separate casement stay |
| Typical load rating | Commonly 20โ45 kg per pair, with heavy-duty ranges beyond that | Depends on size, gauge and number fitted; three hinges spread heavier sashes |
| Adjustable | Yes โ friction can be tuned with a screwdriver | No moving adjustment |
| Cleaning the outside face | Easy-clean versions open a gap at the hinge side for access from inside | No โ sash swings on a fixed line at the jamb |
| Egress / fire escape | Egress versions swing clear to give a wider opening | Opening limited by frame and stay |
| Appearance when shut | Concealed in the rebate โ nothing visible | Knuckle visible on the edge; period-correct look |
| Best suited to | Modern and refurbished casements where function leads | Heritage, conservation and listed work needing traditional ironmongery |
You'll sometimes read that friction hinges are only for lightweight windows and butt hinges are the stronger option. That isn't right. Friction hinges are sold against a stated load rating in kilograms, and heavy-duty ranges carry substantial timber casements without difficulty — you simply specify to the weight of the sash. A butt hinge has no single rating either; its capacity depends on size, gauge and how many you fit. The real question is not which is stronger but whether the hardware has been specified to the actual weight of your window. Undersized hardware is the usual reason a casement starts to drop.
Quality window hinges are tested and graded rather than simply sold by size:
Beyond the two main families, several variants solve specific problems:
Worth adding here: on upper-floor windows, hinges are often paired with a restrictor that limits how far the sash opens, for child safety. Restrictors and egress requirements pull in opposite directions, so where a window is both above ground level and an escape route, a releasable restrictor is the usual answer.
Traditional butt hinges in a period-appropriate finish, paired with a casement stay. On conservation area and listed work, visible ironmongery is part of what a conservation officer assesses — concealed modern hardware can be the detail that gets a design questioned.
Easy-clean friction hinges, so the outside of the glass can be reached from inside the room. Worth specifying anywhere a ladder would otherwise be the only option โ and usually paired with a restrictor for child safety.
Friction hinges rated well above the sash weight, or three butt hinges rather than two. Double-glazed units add considerable weight over single glazing, and hardware carried over from a single-glazed window is a common cause of dropping.
You don't need new windows to fix a hinge problem. If a casement has dropped, binds on the frame, won't stay open, or has seized after years of paint build-up, replacing the hardware is usually a straightforward job that restores the window to working order for a fraction of the cost of replacement.
We survey the sash, weigh the specification against what's actually on the window, and fit hardware rated properly for it. Where the timber around the hinge has decayed — common on older casements, since the rebate traps water — we splice in new sections before refitting, rather than screwing fresh hardware into soft wood where it will pull out again.
Hinge work is often done alongside timber window repair and draught-proofing, since the window is already open and accessible. If you're unsure whether the problem is hardware or joinery, send us a photo of the window open and we'll tell you which it is.
A friction hinge is a single engineered unit consisting of a sliding track fixed to the window frame and pivoting arms connecting to the opening sash. Adjustable friction within the mechanism holds the window at any chosen angle without needing a separate stay. Friction hinges are specified against a stated load rating in kilograms, and easy-clean and egress versions are available for cleaning access and fire escape requirements.
A butt hinge is the traditional hinge form: two flat leaves joined by a knuckle and pin, with one leaf recessed into the window frame and the other into the sash. It allows the sash to pivot but does nothing to hold it open, so a butt-hinged casement needs a separate casement stay. Butt hinges remain the correct choice for heritage and conservation work, where visible traditional ironmongery is expected.
Neither is inherently stronger โ this is a common misconception. Friction hinges carry a stated load rating in kilograms, and heavy-duty ranges handle substantial timber casements without difficulty. A butt hinge's capacity depends on its size, gauge and how many are fitted, with three hinges commonly used to spread heavier sashes. What matters is that the hardware is specified to the actual weight of the window. Undersized hardware, not hinge type, is the usual reason a casement starts to drop.
If the window swings shut on its own, either the friction hinges have lost their resistance and need adjusting or replacing, or the window is on butt hinges with a failed or missing casement stay. Friction can often be increased with a screwdriver on the adjustment screw. If the hinge is worn or corroded, replacement is the reliable fix โ and it doesn't require a new window.
The two main families are friction hinges and butt hinges. Variants include easy-clean friction hinges, which open a gap at the hinge side so the outside of the glass can be cleaned from indoors; egress or fire-escape hinges, which swing the sash clear for a wider opening; parliament hinges, which project the sash clear of a deep reveal; cranked hinges, offset to clear a rebate or moulding; rising butt hinges, which lift the sash over a sill or floor covering; and flag hinges, which lift apart so the sash can be removed without unscrewing.
No. Traditional sliding sash windows have no hinges at all โ the sashes slide vertically within a box frame, counterbalanced by weights on cords running over pulleys. Hinges belong to casement windows, which swing open. If your window slides rather than swings, the hardware you're looking for is cords, weights and pulleys rather than hinges.
Yes, in almost all cases. Replacing hinges on a sound timber casement is a straightforward job and costs a fraction of a new window. Where the timber around the hinge rebate has decayed โ common on older casements, because the rebate traps water โ new sections are spliced in first so the replacement hardware has solid timber to fix into. We carry out hinge replacement as a standalone repair across London.
Traditional butt hinges with a casement stay are generally expected on heritage work, since the ironmongery is visible and forms part of the window's character. Concealed modern hardware can attract questions from a conservation officer. See our guide to conservation area window rules for how designations affect what you can change.
Whether you need a sash window repair, full replacement, or heritage restoration โ get in touch for honest advice and a free, no-obligation quote.
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